On American identity abroad
In the University of Bristol Epigram I read
a feature on studying abroad in America--
a piece not too unlike the one I
needed to write. The article begins with a fictional
account of an American college party,
"a boozy 20th birthday celebration," gone
wrong: campus security bursts into the room
and commandeers all drinks before "breathalizing
every single party guest." Soon those
blowing guilty have "200 pound" fines and
suspended driving licenses.
The reporter goes on to cite
this scenario as a common
one at American colleges.
"In America, where the
drinking age is 21," the
piece further relates, "many
youths spend more time in
their local ice cream parlour
than the bar." Well...
I really can't speak for
many American schools besides
Colby, and I think it's
unwise to try to generalize
the way of life at "Uni" in
the UK. But what I might
be able to write about is
being an American at a
British university, at least
one like Bristol.
Normally, our identities
comprise a collection of
roles and the ways we act
them out. At Colby and at
home, for example, I'm a son and brother, a
student, a friend, a member of the Jazz Band
and also an American, among other things.
But traveling abroad has filtered out most of
these roles and left behind that last one,
American. From passport control to arrival at
my hall, I am now an American above all
else. "Americans!" our British friends still
laugh and shout when they see us study
abroad students. They know an abridged list
of cities and states (sometimes confusing the
two, like naming Miami a state), every line
from American Dad and Family Guy and an
unexpected amount about President Obama
and Hilary Clinton. They also like to talk
about American pancakes, which they tell us
we eat in stacks ten high, overrun with butter
and coveted maple syrup.
None of this is to say, of course, that our
British friends match the expectations we
brought along with us. Here I think our orientation
upon arrival failed us in particular.
We learned the essentials of British culture:
their respect for lines (queues), their preference
of petty theft over violent assault and
their love of black clothing. Really, none of
these hints has helped us adjust to life in Bristol;
we suspect these guidelines may hold up
among adults, but the "youths" at the University
of Bristol have done little more than
slide by us in the liquid queues. And, of
course, they wear as many colors as we do--
often from the American Apparel catalogue.
As for theft... At orientation they warned us
to lock our doors even when visiting the
bathroom and to keep our laptops in view at
all times. But when I go to the bathroom, I'm
more worried about the "freshers" in my corridor
removing my bed and dressers than my
computer.
For many of us, being American in England
also means being American all over Europe.
Marvels like easyJet and Eurail make it
possible for students to travel cheaply, notably
during the month-long Easter holiday,
which just ended. Our primary identities then
become both tourist and
American (unless you pretend
to be Canadian). But
being a foreigner is much
more enjoyable in Bristol
than it is in tourist hives
like Vienna or Prague. At
these places, we found little
human interaction outside
of waiters, tour guides
and a range of beggars
(from those frozen genuflecting
to those who curse
and spit at your feet). The
election of our new President
has helped cool animosity
toward Americans
abroad, but there lingers an
unarticulated annoyance,
an understandable one, I
think. It's easy--and unfair--
to judge a restaurant
in Munich on how well the
waitress spoke English. Indeed,
no matter where we went, their English
was better than our German or Czech or Polish
(in that order). A tense line lies between
being an ignorant guest in someone's country
and also a paying customer in his restaurant.
Meanwhile, even back at Bristol, language
problems lurk around every familiar corner. I
think people sometimes feel that studying
abroad in English speaking countries makes
for a somehow less challenging or authentic
cultural experience; the word "immersion" is
commonly kept in the context of foreign languages.
Without undermining the difficulties
of these other study abroad experiences, I
would note the unique communication problems
pitched at Americans visiting Great
Britain. Unnerving, and often mischievous,
is it for words whose meanings you think you
know to squirm around and attach themselves
elsewhere. Words like "biscuit" (UK
cookie), "private school" (UK public school)
and "pants" (UK underwear) among countless
others will certainly lead you astray, but
it's usually a fun and worthwhile journey.